London Fashion Week: Best in Show

With London Fashion Week A/W ’10 done and dusted, I’ve now had time to review all the show reports. There was an abundance of heavenly whimsical garden prints, silk, and a greater emphasis on feminine cuts than we’ve seen in recent seasons. Also big will be ankle booties (still going strong) and luxurious textures in tailored wool, matte silks and (faux) furs.

Although Topshop Unique is always fun, it’s rarely one of my favourite shows of the week. But this time it was easily my favourite show (so much so that I had trouble narrowing down my favourite looks to just three). It was a quirky woodland-tastic mix of a Girl Scouts camping trip meets Badger from Wind in the Willows, and every look was exactly what I want to wear now to get me through the last weeks of winter. I have a sudden urge to don deer antlers, knitted grey socks and frilled jackets for a trample in the woods…

Topshop Unique

My second favourite was Mary Katrantzou’s show. A Central St Martins graduate and a relative newcomer to the scene, her whimsical prints are reminiscent of McQueen. I’d love to see this first look on Keira Knightley or Diane Kruger.

Mary Katrantzou

As with last season, the hotly anticipated show (and the one with the most star-studded front row) was Burberry Prorsum. I was most surprised by the absence of a single gown, with Christopher Bailey choosing to return to the brand’s roots – every single look centred on the iconic jacket.

Burberry Prorsum

Vivienne Westwood Red Label was a typically ecclectic mix ranging from the feminine chic to the political activist to the Westwood eccentric. Vivienne always knows how to flatter a woman’s body – but mostly I loved the shoes.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Erdem is another of my favourite relative-newcomers. Erdem Moralioglu somehow manages to make his women look classic, whimsical, girl-about-town-cool, and completely individual all at the same time. These are the type of looks one could easily take from brunch to a boardroom presentation to an evening gallery show to cocktails.

Erdem

This is Sass & Bide’s second show in London after relocating from New York Fashion Week, and last season their show was one of the best I attended (I was seated behind Twiggy and opposite Scott Schuman!). The Australian duo are among my favourite designers to wear – in fact, barely a week goes by without me wearing at least one of their designs. Perhaps more famous for their jeans (a perennial model favourite), I think it’s their ready-to-wear designs where they really excell. There was lots of black and white, and they continued the tribal theme they started last season. I particularly loved the sharp-shouldered epaulette jackets and the jewel encrusted feather neckpeices.

Sass & Bide

Finally, my other favourite looks deserving of an honourable mention. Clockwise from top left:  Holly Fulton (who does the most amazing prints and accessories which remind me of a superwoman in New York in the 60s – definitely one to watch); Mulberry (lovely prints and bags, the whole show oozed 70s luxe); Matthew Williamson (the King of hippy-luxe prints and floaty dresses perfect for lazing on Ibiza); Christopher Kane (usually one of my favourites – though this time I was slightly less impressed, the embroidered black velvet is still extremely gorgeous); Clements Ribeiro  (continuing the theme of divine prints and feminine cuts); PPQ (though some looks were a bit ghetto-fabulous for my liking, they deserve a mention for the disco-ready gold and black velvet looks).

Clockwise from top left: Holly Fulton, Mulberry, Matthew Williamson, Christopher Kane, Clements Ribeiro, PPQ

So tell me, dear readers – what were your favourite shows from London Fashion Week? Which designers are you most looking forward to in Milan and Paris?

Love, Miss B xx

*All images from www.londonfashionweek.co.uk