City Guide: A Weekend in Lisbon

If you follow me on Instagram, Facebook or Twitter, you might have seen that I recently spent a long weekend in Lisbon. My husband was there for work, so I decided to join him for a few nights so that I could spend Thursday and Friday exploring by myself and then have the weekend together.

It was my first time in Portugal and it didn’t disappoint; in fact, I’m already trying to figure out how soon I can return to explore Porto, the Algarve Coast, and the areas outside of Lisbon. It’s an easy flight from London or New York – I left home at breakfast and by lunchtime I was strolling the pastel streets in search of pastel de nata.

If you haven’t been to Lisbon before, I recommend it for it’s beautiful sunbleached pastel-hued streets, those gorgeous azulejo tiled buildings, old-world charm, and thriving foodie scene.

Wearing: Marks & Spencer dress c/- (sold out but similar style here) // Loeffler Randall sandals (also available in silver + nude) // Marks & Spencer hat c/- // Anthropologie bag (past season, but similar style available here) // Anthropologie earrings (old but similar style here + here) // Chloe sunglasses.

What to Do:

Walk around Alfama (Old Town) // We started our afternoon in Alfama at the Feira da Ladra flea market (which takes place every Tuesday and Saturday from early morning until early afternoon). I didn’t come away with anything, but it’s still worth a visit if, like me, you enjoy vintage treasure-hunting. Then it was onto the lookout point at Miradouro da Graça for a superb vantage point across the sweeping expanse of terracotta rooftops, before visiting the nearby Castelo de Sao Jorge – the archaeological ruins of a Moorish castle dating back to the 11th century (which also boasts an incredible view over the whole city). After the castle we stopped for well-earned gelato at a little place at the bottom of the hill called Pastelaria Santo António – we had basil and banana and it was honestly one of the best I’ve ever had, before happily getting lost in the tiny, sloping backstreets on our way back to town for dinner. You won’t want to miss the view from Largo das Portas do Sol – probably one of the most stunning in Lisbon, and it would be magnificent at sunset (alas, it was pouring with rain when I went – just another reason to return!). 

Get lost in Bairro Alto // One my first afternoon exploring, I started at the Time Out Market for lunch (see below), made a pitstop at Comoba for an iced coffee, crossed the road to the set of stairs opposite, then climbed all the way to the top of the tram route – weaving left and right to explore the backstreets – until I hit Manteigaria (if there’s one thing to distract you from climbing hundreds of metres, it’s the promise of dessert). Re-fuelled and revived, I carried on towards the the botanical gardens and Embaixa (a cool concept store housed in a former palace) – all the time taking the least direct route so that I could explore all the backstreets. After exploring the gardens, it was time for dinner so I ventured over to nearby Tapisco (see below) for dinner before walking all the way back to our hotel. As dusk fell, the labyrinth of cobblestoned streets came to life with the sound of music, the smell of sardines grilling, and colourful streamers and fairy lights everywhere. Pure magic!

Take the No. 28 Tram // If you need to cover a lot of sightseeing ground fast, then take one of the old canary yellow trams from one end to the other and walk downhill. The route will give a good overview of the various neighbourhoods to explore (I didn’t take the tram but often walked alongside the same route), but make sure to also venture off the main route and explore the surrounding side streets as well. A single ticket is around €3 + can be purchased onboard.

A morning in Belem // The perfect morning in Belem looks something like this: get an early start and arrive at Pastéis de Belém(where the pastel de nata was invented in 1837) for breakfast when they open at 8am, followed by a walk through the gothic cloisters of the breathtaking Jerónimos Monastery next door (€5 entry). Just up from the Monastery is the Museu Coleção Berardo of Modern and Contemporary Art (which houses works by Picasso, Mondrian, Warhol, and more), which has free admission on Saturdays (and entrance for just €5 on other days). Afterwards, head towards the water and turn right to visit the Torre de Belém (we arrived too late and couldn’t bear to queue in the heat, so headed straight to lunch instead). After all that culture, you should have worked up an appetite, so walk back along the water towards LX Factory – a trendy cluster of restaurants and stores housed in a former warehouse. We had the most delicious tacos outside at Mez Cais – a little Mexican restaurant at the back – before grabbing a fresh juice and browsing for far too long in Ler Devagar bookshop (neither of us ever go anywhere in the world without hunting down the best bookstores).

Take a day trip to Sintra // We really wanted to make it out to Sinatra, but as my husband only had one full day free between conference sessions, we decided to spend that exploring Lisbon together and save this for another visit when we could spare an entire day doing it justice. But just a short trip from Lisbon is the UNESCO world heritage site of Sintra, home to the sort of rolling hills, royal palaces and romantic castles that fairytales are written about. My friend Merritt went the next day and her post from the colourful Pena Palace looks incredible – bookmarking this for next time!

What to Eat:

Manteigaria // We sampled the famous pastel de nata (Portuguese custard tarts) all over the city, and deemed these to be the very best (so much so that we returned three times thereafter!). At this standing-room only pastelaria there’s always a queue, but it moves quickly so you won’t need to wait long for your custard fix. They’re €1 each whether you eat in or take-away, but I loved standing at the little golden bar shoulder-to-shoulder with tourists and locals alike, sprinkling the fresh tarts with cinnamon, and watching the staff bake the next batch right in front of my eyes. Probably the best €1 you’ll ever spend.

Bairro do Avillez // There are actually four different restaurants under one roof at this flagship eatery by Lisbon’s leading chef, José Avillez. We sat at the front in the Taberna which specialises in petiscos (Portuguese tapas) and loved everything we tried – the grilled pear salad was my favourite and my husband loved the wine list (and accompanying prices).

Cantinho do Avillez // We didn’t realise until afterwards that this restaurant was by the same chef as our previous night’s meal at Barrio do Avillez (yes, the clue should have been in the name…), but they’re still both worth a visit nonetheless. We had another great meal here – this time with my friends Meghan and Merritt who were also in town – followed by a walk to Manteigaria for more pastel de nata for dessert (obviously).

Tapisco// One of the restaurants by Michelin-starred chef, Henrique Sá Pessoa (Portugal’s answer to Jamie Oliver). I went by myself on my first night (while my husband was at a conference dinner elsewhere) and loved the laid-back vibe and modern take on Portuguese cuisine, served tapas-style. Book ahead or go early (I walked in at around 18:30 and easily got a seat at the bar, but there was a huge queue by the time I left).

Prado // Another great spot for lunch or dinner. I loved the relaxed atmosphere and the local farm-to-table menu – the hispi cabbage + goats cheese was exquisite.

Mercado da Ribeira (The Time Out Market) // Here you will find a taste of all of Lisbon’s best cuisine under one roof. Most of the city’s top chefs and restaurants (including the aforementioned Manteigaria, José Avillez, and Henrique Sá Pessoa) have a stall here, and you can try some of their most famous dishes for around €10.

What to Souvenir:

Something for your home // If you’re an interior design enthusiast like me, it is definitely worth leaving some space in your suitcase for some beautiful Portuguese ceramics. I had seen A Vida Portuguesa on Goop and knew I wanted to go before I even arrived, but I loved it so much I ended up visiting all four of the Lisbon outposts. It feels a bit like the homewares department of Liberty or Anthropologie, and sells all the local Portuguese artisanal products you could want. The flagship at Intendente is the biggest (if a little bit of a trek to get to), but the two Chiado locations are more centrally-located and right around the corner from each other (one specialises in homewares, the other in toiletries and food). I could have happily bought most of the store, but ended up with two white ceramic pinecone canisters (which now hold teabags on our kitchen bench) + a few cabbage leaf plates (all from heritage brand Bordallo Pinheiro), some small glasses, and a few things for my bathroom (below). Right in between the two Chiado locations is another store called Loiça ao kilo (literally: ceramics sold by the kilo), which sells similar, but less expensive local ceramics and is also worth a look.

Something for your bathroom // Whilst in A Vida Portuguesa, I discovered two beautiful heritage Portuguese beauty brands that I hadn’t come across before – Claus Porto and Benamôr. I bought this gorgeous lemon verbena-scented body cream from Benamôr and a hand wash and hand cream from Claus Porto, who also make the most beautiful candles and bars of soap – the perfect little gifts for friends back home.

Something for your fridge // A bottle of local port (my husband picked up a bottle from a little wine shop) and a box of those delicious Pastel de Nata to enjoy once you’re home (it would be rude not to).

Where to Stay:

Dear Lisbon Gallery House // We stayed at this boutique hotel and absolutely loved it. The location was good, the rooms were beautiful, we had a little balcony which overlooked the terracotta rooftops, and a delicious breakfast each morning – what more do you need? Others we liked the look of and nearly booked:

Le Consulat // Housed in the former Brazillian consulate building in the centre of the bohemian Bairro Alto neighbourhood, and also features a beautiful Taberna restaurant. Definitely staying here next time!

Casa do Principe // Historic charm + palatial rooms (that pink royal suite, swoon!) with a Wes Anderson vibe overlooking the botanical gardens.

Wearing: Anthropologie dress (past season, but similar style available here) // Anthropologie earrings (old but similar style here + here) // Chloe sunglasses.

Good to Know:

Getting around // First things first: Lisbon is not very accessible unless you’re reasonably fit and willing to walk; it’s hilly. Really, really hilly. Also all those hilly streets are cobbled and peppered with flights and flights of weathered marble stairs – so please don’t bother to pack a single pair of heels (you won’t wear them and if you do, you’ll almost certainly hurt yourself). That said, I always think the best way to see a city is on foot, so I walked absolutely everywhere with the exception of Belem (we walked there and took an Uber over to the old town afterwards) – most days this amounted to around 20,000 steps and 45 flights of stairs (well, I had to work off all those pastries somehow…). Otherwise, the trams are ferries looked cheap and efficient and I’ll definitely try them next time.

Language // Although the official language is Portuguese, almost everyone speaks excellent English, so you won’t have any problem getting around or ordering in shops and restaurants. But as always, try to master a few key words and phrases – even if it’s just a quick ‘bom dia’ (good morning), ‘olá’ (hello), ‘por favor’ (please), or ‘obrigada’ (thank you), – any attempt at Portuguese will be appreciated by the locals.

Wearing: Sea NY dress (sold out but similar style here) // Loeffler Randall sandals (also available in silver + nude) // Marks & Spencer hat c/- // Joanie Clothing bag c/- (past season, but similar style available here) // Anthropologie earrings (old but similar style here + here) // Celine sunglasses.

Have you been to Lisbon? Please let me know your favourite things and if there any gems you loved that I haven’t mentioned here!

Love, Briony xx

*NB: I have included the website wherever possible (some of the places mentioned don’t have one of their own), but please let me know if you think there’s anything I have missed. 

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