Like I said in my previous post on the subject, Berlin is a strange and wonderful city which seems to present two dichotomous sides to itself. The first is one of a classic European capital, steeped in the history of wars and Empire, and boasting pioneers in the arts and sciences, while the second is that of the counter-cultures which have sprung up in the wake of the fall of the Berlin Wall. You’ll find this side in the areas characterised by original old buildings* that are faded versions of their former selves, almost derelict to look at. Mostly, these days such buildings have become oversized magnets to splashes of uranium green paint, graffiti (some arty, but most mere tags scrawled upon the walls) and layer upon layer of posters of one kind or another. It’s around here – on the back streets of Mitte, Prenzlauer Berg and Friedrichshain (amongst others) – that you’ll find the tiny second-hand bookstores, quiet coffee shops and underground bars teeming with hipsters and arty types.
In the very same way it takes a wonderful local to point out the symbolic markers of the city’s history (an old friend of mine gave us the most incredible walking tour, pointing out sites I never would have found on my own), it takes local knowledge to really uncover the secrets of the second side of Berlin. My number one tip is to befriend the coolest local you can and take their suggestions and turn this into your treasure map of the city. In my case, I had the recommendations of my wonderful Twitter followers, and followed each of their suggestions down tiny alleyways, into hidden courtyards and through unmarked doorways to all the best little places I visited (and which no amount of leisurely wandering down backstreets would have led me to on my own). Provided you go prepared for the hunt, this ‘hunt’ is the city’s irressistible charm.
For like one of my lovely readers pointed out in response to my last post, Berlin – more than any other place in the world I’ve visited – is not a city that gives itself up easily.
Have you ever been to a city almost coy in its refusal to give itself up easily? I’d love to hear about its secrets.
Love, Miss B xx
* Much of the city consists of ugly Communist-era concrete apartment blocks, quickly erected in place of buildings torn down or destroyed by the wars
I agree with you about Berlin, I am back again on Thursday for my umpteenth visit, and despite walking many miles I don’t feel I have come close to understanding Berlin.
I like that despite hating it after my first visit I have grown to love going, unlike Paris or Amsterdam where it is all to easy, too obvious, I like that you have to work at it.
The only other place I have found this hard to understand was Pusan in South Korea it is somewhere I would love to revisit and try harder to understand.
That is so true about Berlin. Its one of those cities you have to get to know. Have a fantastic day, my dear
Kisses
Ps: I’m hosting an awesome swimming suit GIVEAWAY today! Just in time for summer!
Prague and Marrakech really did it for me and surprised me. I’ve been to a fair share of Europe’s larger cities but I really took to Prague. It’s very walkable and has plenty of small independent shops which I find is a sign of funkiness. Marrakech is grotty and stinky on the street but the most wonderful secret shops–that don’t even have names–just ‘exist’ and I love that.
I absolutely loved both of those cities. Prague for the beautiful coloured buildings (like doll’s houses lined up in a row) and cobbled alleyways, and Marrakech for the wonderfully exotic colours, sounds, smells and atmosphere that is so thrilling, it seems to buzz.
B xx